Each Chef Must Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.
An Unexpected Accolade
The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely shocked.
“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The Appeal of Simplicity
The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
The Star Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Rising Above the Giants
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.
The Creed of Hospitality
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
A Story of Hard Work
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
A Recognition for the Culture
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.